Two weeks ago, Qatar became the third country in the GCC to allow the sale of pork in its country. This former backwater nation has sought modernization at a furious pace with funds from the export of natural gas and oil. The changes, while good for the international position of the nation, has come at the cost of a loss of culture and a disposition to satisfying the demands of expatriate workers who now make up over 70% of the population.

Qatar’s conservative, tribal and small native population located away from trading centers. This has historically prevented a cosmopolitan society from emerging in the country. And in a land far from the Christian population centers of the middle east, products like alcohol and pork are being sold for the first time, much to the agitation of the local population.

Nasr Al Naama, a Qatari interior design student at Virginia Commonwealth University, feels that the government has incapacitated the locals to an extent.

But locals feel that opening the country to the world involves selling products that represent being part of the wider world. Locals claim that public locations like the pearl, mostly visited by expats, are also Qatari domains.

Samer Al Karanshawy, a research coordinator at Qatar Faculty of Islamic Studies, claims that there is a social divide caused by the influx of wealth in Qatar.

According to some expatriates, like Adrien Parisse, Qatar is gradually loosening restrictions on alcohol in the wake of the upcoming world cup.

Toward the horizon (f/29 1/800)

Eid out at the Doha sea.

Midday Skyline (f/32 1/2000)

A Dhow (f/25 1/1250)

Destined (f/6.3 1/160)

Manhattan 2.0 - Doha (f/8 1/13)

Breast cancer, once considered a “taboo” in the Qatari community, has now become a topic of discussion among the local community. Numerous awareness programs and events have been held throughout the month of October in various venues in Education City and Doha.

An audio slideshow of Joshua working at Northwestern Production Facilities.

The story of a watchmaker in Souq Waqif, Doha.

In the rapidly modernizing country of Qatar,  Souq Waqif captures the grandeur and glory of the nation’s past.

The bazaar has existed for hundreds of years. It went through several phases of renovation. Old buildings were demolished and replaced by modern ones. In 2006, the souq went through another phase of renovation to create the blend of modernity and tradition that we see today.

In the hustle and bustle of the souq, very few would notice Iyaz Akbar’s presence. He occupies a quiet corner, mending clocks and watches. Akbar made his way to Qatar three decades ago when he was only 17 years old.

Here, Akbar worked in many sectors before eventually settling as a watchmaker. He learnt and mastered the skills of watchmaking from his older brother, who is also an established watchmaker in Qatar.

Akbar says he earns very little money from his watch repair outlet. He sends most of his income to his family in Pakistan. With the small amount of money Akbar earns, he has to take care of his wife and six children.

But Akbar does not complain about his low income or standard of living. In fact, he is satisfied with his job.

Akbar is ready to stay here as long as he can. He also intends to bring at least one of his sons to Qatar. Not to continue his family’s watchmaking legacy, but to lead a normal life

For the young Tunisian men living living here, on the Northern edge of Paris, it is the survival of the fittest.

The food and drink is not nearly enough for the thousand or so men squatting in the park. The faster and stronger ones race to grab whatever food they can, leaving the rest to wait for the next car to come along.

Miloud looks on from a distance as his fellow Tunisians scramble for bread and drinks. “Everyday someone or another brings us food to eat, and that is how we survive,” he says with a sigh.

Miloud (Photo By: Mohammed Noorudeen)

Miloud, 26, arrived in Paris a few months ago full of hope for better job opportunities than those on offer in Tunisia. He quickly realized he had made the wrong move.

“Coming to France is one of the biggest mistakes in my life. I am tired of this life already,” says Miloud.

In the few months since former Tunisian president Zein al Abidine Ben Ali was toppled, thousands of young Tunisians like Miloud have left behind their homes and families in Tunisia and set out for Europe.

Miloud hails from Gabes, a town in southeastern Tunisia, where he worked as a petroleum technician. His curiosity to know what lay across the Mediterranean Sea and the need for a better paying job persuaded him to leave Tunisia.

“Everyone back in Tunisia kept saying that Paris is the land of opportunities, and that is why I am here,” he says. “That is why all these Tunisians are here.”

Thousands like him have made their way to Paris, where the tough life of an undocumented migrant – homeless, hungry and on the run from the authorities – was waiting for them.

LIVING ROUGH: Miloud spends many nights here, in his "bedroom" alongside the railways tracks. (Photo by Mohammed Noorudeen)

He spends his days aimlessly roaming the streets of Paris and many of his nights sleeping rough, in a ditch alongside the railways tracks. He sleeps on a dirty mattress beside a pile of empty beer bottles and plastic rubbish. It is hardly the life of opportunity he had hoped for before leaving Tunisia.

Two evenings later, in the nearby neighborhood of Belleville about 50 men are hanging around in the Gymnase De La Fontaine Au Roi in the nearby neighborhood of Belleville.

Over the doorway hangs a handwritten sign that reads “No journalists.” Garbage and leftover food is piled up along the edges of the gymnasium, and the smell of decaying food is everywhere.

“There is no point in cleaning this place because it would get littered again and again,” says Mohammed Malek, a Tunisian migrant visiting the gym.

Earlier this year, hundreds of homeless Tunisian migrants took matters into their own hands and began illegally squatting in the municipal gym. The multistoried gymnasium now holds more than 200 Tunisians, making it uncomfortably crowded. For many of the migrants living there, the gymnasium is only used as a place to sleep and is usually jam-packed during the night.

“It is really crowded here and it’s hard, especially in the mornings because there are only two toilets that are usable and everybody wants to use them,” said one of the gymnasium inhabitants, who didn’t provide his name. The wooden floor basketball court in the basement is covered with worn sleeping mattresses and dirty blankets.

Migrants have also squatted in the Parc de La Villette, which is best known for its science museum and concert venues. It also serves as a playground for children.

Parc de La Villette looks more like a refugee camp than a playground now. It seems that the municipality has totally ignored the maintenance of the park since the migrants moved in. Garbage litters the park and it has become unhygienic, especially since the migrants urinate wherever they please and wash themselves in the drinking fountains.

Although the occupation of both the park and the gymnasium is illegal, the occupation of the gymnasium is a much more serious issue. “It’s okay if they want to stay or sleep in the park because it is for the public, but the gymnasium is private property,” says Samia Makthouf, a French Tunisian lawyer who has been defending the migrants. “It is illegal.”

Miloud, however, has spent most nights sleeping beside the railway tracks since he arrived in Paris four months ago. “At least trains don’t go through these tracks anymore, so I can sleep peacefully” he says. He calls this place his bedroom and hangs his clothes on the chain-link fence, which is topped with coils of razor wire.

The Paris mayor’s office has attempted to tackle the dilemma of what to do with thousands of undocumented Tunisian migrants living in the city’s streets by assigning a handful of Non-Governmental Organizations to provide humanitarian assistance.

France Terre d’Asile, for example, has been providing some of the most vulnerable Tunisian migrants with housing. They have also proposed to provide vocational training.

“We don’t have the means to take responsibility for the thousands people, but we have to respect their dignity and respect the values on which the organization was found,” says Pierre Henry, Director General of France Terre d’Asile.

“We have provided housing for about 130 migrants, living in several hotels financed by us. The City Hall promised to help, but I have not received a single penny,” he added.

Wealthy business clients usually meet Samia Maktouf in the posh office of her corporate law firm along the Champs Elysees. But lately, the visitors to Maktouf’s office are destitute and undocumented Tunisian migrants who have become entangled in France’s bewildering legal system.

PRO BONO: Corporate lawyer Samia Maktouf and some of the undocumented Tunisian migrants she helps navigate the French legal system. (Photo by Mohammed Noorudeen)

Maktouf, who immigrated from Tunisia to France decades ago, has defended more than 50 Tunisian migrants who have been arrested by the French authorities and provided informal advice to 100 more.

“The law concerning illegal migration is really interesting and changes constantly. I have been studying it for a while now,” says Maktouf.

GIUSTI, a Non-Governmental Organization that defends migrant rights, has been assessing the current legal situation of the massive influx of Tunisian migrants into Europe. The organization has dedicated several lawyers to handle the cases of these illegal migrants and also responds to inquiries related to documentation.

“Many of the Tunisian migrants are arrested at the border and later deported because they do not have any sort of documentation to identify themselves, but we help them appeal,” says Diane Kitmon, a member of GIUSTI.

“The controls at the border are very discriminatory based on looks and skin color. The migrants that looked like French were able to get through without much trouble,” Kitmon added.

Although Maktouf has not been able to provide long-term solutions for her Tunisian clients, she has been effective at bailing them out of jail and preventing their deportation, to an extent.

According to Maktouf, legalizing their stay in France is complicated. “They might have to stay illegally in France for at least 3 years and then maybe they can try to appeal,” said Maktouf.

“Even if they marry a French girl to get their permits, their marriage will not be considered valid because they are illegal migrants and nobody from the mayor’s office would approve it,” she added.

Miloud was arrested…

“I had to leap over to avoid the car hitting me and broke my arm,” says Miloud, who is astounded by the fact that the police seemed to care more about the stolen car than about his injured arm.

He was later released from custody. However, he was not given any medical assistance by the authorities. “I could not bear the pain, so I decided to go to the hospital myself,” said Miloud.

Shortly after Miloud arrived in Paris, he got a job helping at a construction site. “I was lucky that I got a job,” says Miloud. But after only 10 days they paid him 550 Euros and asked him to leave. “Maybe because they came to know who I was,” says Miloud.

“I just took the money and left without arguing,” he says. Since then Miloud has been unemployed and any possibilities of finding a job soon have diminished as he is still nursing his broken arm.

The common belief back in Tunisia is that Paris holds abundant job opportunities. However, Miloud and all other Tunisian migrants have come to realize that this is not the case. In reality, unemployment rates in France are currently on the rise, making it even harder for the Tunisian migrants to find a job.

France has the fifth highest GDP in the world, yet its unemployment rate jumped from 7.8 percent in 2008 to 9.8 percent in 2010, according to the CIA World Factbook.

“The number of unemployed French people are already really high then how can the French government provide more migrants with work?” says Elie Hatem, a former advisor to the right-wing party, Front Nationale, which stands staunchly against the immigration of non-Europeans to France.

“The [Tunisian migrants] should go to Saudi Arabia, one of the richest countries in the world, or even Qatar where they share the same culture,” says Hatem.

Employers refuse to give the Tunisian migrants any jobs mainly because of their illegal status in France and their lack of any identification documents.

Politicians on the French left believe that the government should permit all undocumented Tunisian migrants to work legally in France.

Alima Boumediene Thiery, a senator from the left wing French Green Party advocates that Tunisian migrants be given permission to work in France for six months to a year.

“Without work, we will turn them into criminals. We need to give them the authorization to work,” says Boumediene Thiery, who represents Paris in the senate.

Many of the Tunisian migrants made their way to Paris to stay here and make a living. They are still hoping that Paris will have something good in store for them, regardless of all the hardships they have face and those that lay ahead.

“I spent a lot of money to come here and went through a lot of hardships. I didn’t go through all of that for nothing. I want to stay here,” says Miloud.

However, some Tunisians find it hard to live a miserable life in Paris and seem ready to go back, but only in one condition. “Many of them have expressed interest in returning to Tunisia if they get a refund of 2000 euros,” said Muhammad Majdi,

Although Samia Maktouf  has been helping her fellow Tunisian migrants, she is also of the opinion that they should not stay in France.

“My advice to them is to go back to Tunisia, unless they have a family here,” said Maktouf. “Here they will not be respected, and living in dignity and respect is very important,” she added.

Miloud has now found a place to stay. His broken arm may have been a curse, but it turned out to be a blessing in disguise when he became eligible to stay in one of France Terre d’Asile’s apartments.

Those in need of medical treatment are eligible to stay in the hotel. “The youngest, most fragile, sick, injured and those who want to return can stay in our shelter,” says Pierre Henry.

All Miloud can do now is wait hoping for the best. He hopes to get his legal documents some day so that he can work and earn a living. He is adamant not to go back and all willing and ready to thrive and succeed in Paris, to make his French dream a reality. But for now, he spends his time aimlessly roaming the streets of Paris.

http://muhagereen.org/

A Street in Souq Waqif (f/4 ISO 500 1/4000)

DOHA – The capital city of Qatar houses the much talked about traditional market, Souq Waqif. The market came into existence about a hundred years ago, but was replaced by modern buildings and retail shopping outlets over the years. In the supervision of Qatar’s Emir Sheikh Hamad Bin Khalifa Al Thani, Souq Waqif was revived and restored to its former self. Souq Waqif, a labyrinthine market, is now known for it’s traditional setting and the numerous restaurants it houses.

In the hustle and bustle of Souq Waqif, Iyaz Akbar, occupies a quiet corner mending clocks and watches. Akbar, 50, made his way to Qatar, along with his elder brother, 32 years ago. This was the first time he travelled anywhere outside Islamabad, let alone Pakistan.

“My parents would not let me go out anywhere outside my hometown, not even with my friends,” Akbar recalls. “I came to Qatar with my brother after my father passed away when I was only 17 years old,” he added.

Akbar spent his first 10 years in Qatar working as a goods distributor, salesman and also as an assistant mechanic in a garage in Industrial area. The first few years were the hardest for Akbar not because of lack of a job, but because his employers were harsh on him.

“I usually worked for several companies and was never tied to a contract. I work and they pay me every week. But every few months I had to quit my work because they would be harsh and unjust to me by either delaying pay or overloading me with work,” says Akbar.

Akbar's Niche (f/4 ISO 500 1/400)

Akbar thinks that he has found his niche in life in a corner in Souq Waqif. Akbar has been a watchmaker for almost 20 years now, a craft that he learnt from his elder brother, who resides in Doha with his family. Akbar works 7 days a week in the mornings and evenings and the only holidays for him are Eid Al-Fitr and Eid Al-Adha, the two holy occasions in an Islamic calendar year.

Akbar at work (f/6.5 ISO 500 1/160)

Akbar highlights the importance of job satisfaction for him and how he is content with his current situation.

“This job is the perfect job for me. I am my own boss and nobody can tell me what to do. I can work peacefully at my station and I have no complaints even though my income from this job is low,” he says.

Akbar keeps an eye on time (f/10 ISO 500 1/100)

Akbar earns very little from his occupation as a watchmaker. He earns about QR 50 per day on average including the sales of telephone recharge cards. With the little money he makes, he has to support his wife and six children living in Pakistan.

“I can save most of the money I earn because I don’t have to spend on food or housing. I live with my brother and his family and they are very kind to me,” says Akbar.

Working hard, harder. (f/4 ISO 500 1/500)

Akbar wants his youngest son, Jamaluddin, to pursue a career in Engineering, but high quality professional education is expensive in Pakistan. Akbar recently came to know about the programs being offered in Qatar Foundation and the financial aid schemes through Gulf Times, a Qatar based daily newspaper, and is interested in bringing his son to Qatar. However, Akbar is of two minds.

Akbar Browsing the Gulf Times (f/10 ISO 500 1/100)

“My nephew is studying here in Qatar and I would like Jamaluddin to join him, but my concern is that he won’t have liberty here. This place is like a prison and I do not want him to go through the miseries I endured,” he says.

“But I want my son to be educated and have a good job unlike me, so I am still thinking what I should do.”

Akbar reflected on the changes his surroundings have undergone since his arrival in Doha.

“When I first came to Doha, there was no Souq Waqif, it used to be Souq Al-Irani because most of the shop owners here were Iranians. Then it became Souq Al-Ahmed and they built large buildings here. Then they demolished them to build this traditional-looking buildings and now it is filled with foreigners,” he reminisced.

Serving His Customers (f/4 ISO 500 1/800)

Akbar wants to stay in Qatar as long as possible as he is emotionally attached to the country.

“My sponsor said that I might I have to leave once I turn 60, but I wish I can stay longer here. Maybe after I bring my son here, but for now I will continue with my work and wont think about my future because it is pointless.”

Future Undecided (f/4 ISO 500 1/1600)

Today’s Visual Journalism class was the most exciting class we have had yet. Although the technical aspects of photography are a bit tricky, we got to know the anatomy of our camera, and how to “use” it. Everybody has a long way to go and the upcoming classes should be really fun

I am really comfortable with the camera I’m using right now, a Nikon D90, which the university provided for us. Now I guess it is time to experiment and apply some of those techniques that the professor was talking about.

P.S – I got the opportunity to go to Paris this summer for a journalism course and I went around the city taking plenty of pictures. I found an overall shot among my collection. I did not know that it was an overall shot until recently. This might not be the best example, but still an example. Cheers!

An Overall Shot Of A Rally In Paris